Comb coils are one of the simplest ways to begin the loc journey. This method provides a starting structure for your hair to gradually transform as it begins to tangle, compact, and lock.

In this article, I’ll discuss what comb coils are, who they are best for, and what happens to them as they mature into locs.

What Are Comb Coils?

Comb coils are a starter loc method where sections of natural hair are wrapped into individual coils using a small-tooth or tail comb. The hair is separated into individual sections first, and each section is rotated around the comb to create a neat, cylindrical coil.

The result is a head full of small, uniform coils that follow the natural direction of the hair.

Unlike two-strand twists, which use two sections of hair twisted around each other, a comb coil is created from one section of hair at a time. There is no braid or two-strand structure holding the hair together.

The coil gives each section a starting shape while the hair gradually begins to mat and form its own internal structure. A common starting length is around 2 to 3 inches of natural hair, although the ideal length can vary depending on the person’s texture and how well their hair holds a coil.

How Do Comb Coils Turn Into Locs?

The comb organizes the hair into individual sections and gives each section a consistent starting shape. Over time, normal movement, washing, friction, and the hair’s natural tendency to tangle cause the strands within each section to become increasingly intertwined.

As this process continues, the smooth coil gradually changes. You may notice frizz, sections becoming less perfectly defined, and parts of the hair beginning to feel thicker or more compact. 

Eventually, the hair starts knotting and developing into locs. The budding stage is when the coils create a more permanent internal structure, and the locs often become thicker and less uniform in appearance.

What Hair Type Is Best for Comb Coils?

Comb coils are particularly well suited for tightly coiled, kinky hair, especially type 4 hair.

Unlike all other hair types, type 4 hair has more curl and spring, which helps the hair wrap around itself and maintain the coil. However, this doesn’t mean everyone with Type 4 hair will have the same results. Hair density, strand thickness, length, porosity, and how tightly the hair naturally curls can all affect how the coils behave.

How Long Does Your Hair Need to Be for Comb Coils?

To start locs with comb coils, your hair needs to be a minimum of 2 to 3 inches long, although it’s best if it’s 6 or more inches long to prevent unraveling.  

If you’re unsure whether your hair is long enough, a loctician can assess your hair in its natural and stretched states before deciding whether comb coils are a good option.

What Products Are Used for Comb Coils?

Anything you put into your hair during the starter stage can potentially remain trapped as the locs develop. In order to avoid unnecessary residue and product buildup, it’s best to start comb coils without gels, waxes, hair butters, and other residue-producing products, even if they’re labeled ‘loc friendly’.

Do Comb Coils Unravel?

Yes, they can. Comb coils are not permanent when they are first created. Water, washing, sweating, friction, sleeping, and everyday manipulation can cause some of the coils to loosen or unravel.

How much they unravel depends heavily on the person’s hair texture and how well their hair holds its natural curl pattern.

This doesn’t mean you need to redo them every time one coil becomes a little fuzzy. Some frizz and loosening are expected during the early stages.

Can You Wash Comb Coil Starter Locs?

Yes. All locs, regardless of maturity, need to be washed.

A gentle wash can loosen some of the coils, especially if your hair has a softer or looser curl pattern. Light maintenance can be done to encourage them to knot and maintain their shape.

As your hair progresses through the locking process, it will become less prone to detangling.

If your comb coil locs unravel significantly every time you wash them, you may need to adjust your washing technique or consider another starter method that is better suited for your hair texture.

How Often Should Comb Coil Starter Locs Be Retwisted?

The goal of maintenance should be healthy roots and clearly separated locs, not keeping your scalp looking freshly retwisted at all times.

Over-maintaining the roots can create unnecessary tension. The American Academy of Dermatology specifically warns that tight hairstyles, including locs when retwisted too tightly, can contribute to traction alopecia (permanent hair loss due to scalp tension).

What Should You Expect After Getting Comb Coils?

The first few months are less about maintaining a perfect appearance and more about allowing the locs to naturally knot and begin to take shape.

Your starter locs will likely change considerably. They may begin with clearly defined coils, then become frizzy and softer. Some sections may loosen while others hold their shape. Eventually, you may begin noticing budding and increased density within the locs.

If you choose comb coils because you like how neat they look at the beginning, remember that they will not look neat for too long (at the start of your loc journey, that is). As they mature, they will look less frizzy and more uniform. 

How Long Does it Take Comb Coils to Turn Into Locs?

Comb coils can take 12 months or longer to mature. Hair texture, density, length, washing routine, and individual hair behavior all affect the process. Tightly coiled hair generally has an easier time beginning the locking process, but the time it takes to mature varies from person to person.

Are Comb Coils a Good Way to Start Locs?

If you have type 4 hair, this method is a great way to start your locs. 

For all other hair types, comb coils will not hold their shape and will likely unravel long before they can become locs. Several other techniques will work better for types 1, 2, and 3 hair. You can learn about other methods for starting locs here!

Are Comb Coils Right for You?

Comb coils can be an excellent way to start locs, especially if you have tightly coiled natural hair and want clearly defined sections from the beginning. But don’t choose them simply because you like the way fresh comb coils look.

Think about your hair texture, length, desired loc size, maintenance preferences, and how well your hair holds a coil. If your hair doesn’t naturally grip a coil well, another starter method will make the earlier parts of your loc journey easier.

Choose the starting method that works best for your hair type.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Are Comb Coils the Same as Two-Strand Twist Starter Locs?

No. Both methods can be used to start locs, but they are inherently different.

Comb coils are created by wrapping one section of hair around a comb to form a coil. They have a very defined, cylindrical appearance at the beginning.

Two-strand twists are created by dividing each section into two pieces and twisting those pieces around one another. They have a more visibly twisted appearance and may retain that pattern for a while as the locs develop. Learn more about two-strand twists here!

Can Comb Coils Become Thick Locs?

Yes. The eventual size of your locs is influenced by factors such as the size of your original sections, your hair density, and how your hair develops over time. The coil itself doesn’t guarantee a particular final loc size.

Do Comb Coils Lock Faster Than Two-Strand Twists?

Not necessarily. Your hair’s texture plays a major role in how quickly it will tangle and turn into mature locs. For this reason, the time frame varies from person to person.

Can I Wash Comb Coil Starter Locs?

Yes. Washing is an important part of keeping the scalp and hair clean. A gentle washing routine can help minimize unraveling. 

Do Comb Coils Need Gel?

No. Gel is sometimes used by stylists to help create or hold the initial coil, but gel is not what causes hair to loc. It is recommended to avoid any products that could contribute to buildup.

Are Comb Coils Permanent?

No. The initial coil is temporary, but if left untouched (or minimally touched), the comb coils will gradually knot and turn into locs.

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