In this article, I will answer the most common questions in the loc community. If you’re considering getting locs, or already have them, I think you’ll find this Q&A helpful!
How long does it take for locs to mature?
The time it takes for locs to mature varies from person to person, but most locs take anywhere from 12 months to 24 months, or more, to fully mature. Some people may notice their locs becoming more established sooner, while others may need several years depending on their hair texture, loc size, starting method, and maintenance routine.
During the journey, it is normal for locs to go through different stages, including starter locs, budding, teenage locs, and mature locs. Each stage comes with changes in texture, thickness, and appearance. Frizz, swelling, unevenness, tangling, and detangling are all normal parts of the process.
Instead of focusing only on how quickly your locs mature, focus on creating healthy habits that support strong growth. Clean hair, proper hydration, gentle maintenance, and patience will help your locs develop naturally.
Learn how to wash your locs properly (click here) and how to dry them quickly (here).
Try 8 of my favorite DIY loc moisturizer recipes (here) to keep your locs hydrated!
Learn how to maintain your locs without the help of a loctician (here).
And if you’re feeling impatient in the process, check out these 17 tips for staying patient while your locs mature.
How often should you wash locs?
Most people with locs should wash their hair every 5 to 10 days, although the ideal schedule depends on your scalp, lifestyle, climate, and activity level. Someone who exercises frequently, sweats heavily, swims often, or lives in a humid environment may need to wash more often.
A common misconception is that washing locs causes them to unravel. While starter locs may experience some loosening after washing, clean hair locks better because dirt, oil, and buildup can interfere with the natural locking process.
The most important part of washing locs is using a shampoo that rinses well, thoroughly cleaning the scalp, removing all shampoo residue, and allowing the locs to dry completely afterward.
Most shampoos contain ingredients that will leave residue on your locs. For this reason, I made a guide with a complete list of shampoos commonly used by the loc community. In this guide, I break down the ingredients in each shampoo and recommend which ones are the best for healthy locs. Download the free loc shampoo guide here!
Can you wash starter locs?
Yes, you can and should wash starter locs. Keeping starter locs clean helps create a healthy environment for the hair to lock.
Many people in the early stages of their loc journey feel they should avoid washing because they’re afraid their locs will unravel. While some unraveling can happen, especially with methods like comb coils or two-strand twists, this is a normal part of the early stages.
When washing starter locs, be gentle. Avoid aggressively scrubbing or pulling on the locs, but make sure your scalp and hair are properly cleansed. Rinse several times until the water runs clear to ensure there’s no soap stuck inside your locs.
What is the difference between locs and dreadlocks?
The terms locs and dreadlocks generally refer to the same thing: sections of hair that have naturally intertwined and formed rope-like strands. However, many people prefer the term locs because it is considered more neutral and focuses on the hairstyle rather than the historical meanings associated with other terminology.
Language preferences vary from person to person and community to community. Some people proudly use the word dreadlocks, while others choose locs or simply dreads.
Do locs damage your hair?
Healthy locs do not damage your hair. In fact, many people find that locs allow their hair to retain length because they reduce daily manipulation, heat styling, and frequent detangling.
However, locs can become unhealthy if they are maintained incorrectly. Problems such as thinning, breakage, traction alopecia, or buildup can occur from excessive tension, overly tight retwists, neglecting scalp care, or using heavy products that are difficult to remove.
The health of your locs depends less on the hairstyle itself and more on how they are cared for.
How do you moisturize locs?
The best way to moisturize locs is by adding a water-based spray. Water is what actually moisturizes the hair, while oils seal in any existing moisture.
Many people moisturize their locs by lightly misting them with water, rose water, aloe vera sprays, or homemade hydration sprays.
Avoid relying only on creams, waxes, or hair butters. These products do not add moisture and will instead contribute to buildup because they get trapped inside locs and do not wash off easily.
How often you moisturize depends on your hair’s needs. I lightly mist my locs every morning, although during dry seasons, I spritz them twice a day, or as needed.
How do you prevent buildup in locs?
Preventing buildup starts with using fewer products and choosing water-based products that rinse away easily. Because locs have a dense structure, heavy creams, waxes, thick butters, and residue-heavy products will become trapped inside the loc.
Some ways to prevent buildup include:
- Washing your locs weekly
- Using a loc-friendly, residue-free shampoo
- Thoroughly rinsing after washing
- Avoiding heavy products
- Using a lightweight moisturizer spray (download my free recipes here)
- Paying attention to water quality (hard water vs soft water)
Hard water can contribute to buildup by leaving behind mineral deposits. If you live in an area with hard water, using a shower filter or occasionally clarifying your locs may help.
Why do my locs feel dry?
Locs can feel dry for several reasons, including lack of hydration, the season/weather, low humidity, excessive cleansing, and environmental exposure.
Understanding your hair porosity can also help you determine how well your locs absorb and retain moisture.
One common mistake people tend to make is to apply carrier oils when their locs feel dry. While oils can help seal moisture, they do not add moisture to the hair. If the hair is already dehydrated, adding oil alone will not solve the problem.
In this article, I discuss 13 ways to naturally reduce dryness in locs.
How often should you retwist locs?
The frequency of retwisting depends on your personal preference, hair growth, and desired appearance. The minimum time someone should wait is 6 to 8 weeks between maintenance appointments, although I highly encourage you to wait longer if you can.
Retwisting or manipulating the roots too often can create unnecessary tension on the scalp. Over time, excessive tension may contribute to thinning or weak areas around the hairline.
Can you start locs with any hair type?
Yes, anyone with hair can grow locs. While tightly coiled hair often locks faster because the strands naturally wrap around themselves, people with straight, wavy, and loosely curled hair can also successfully grow locs.
The difference between hair types is the amount of time it takes the locs to reach maturity, as well as the recommended method/technique that is used to start them.
In this video, I show you exactly how each of these techniques is done.
Why are my locs frizzy?
Frizz is a normal part of having locs and does not mean your locs are unhealthy. Loose hairs naturally occur because your hair is constantly growing, shedding, adjusting, and changing.
During the early stages, frizz is especially common because the hair is still forming locs. Even mature locs usually have some level of frizz (particularly near the roots), although it is significantly less than when you’re starting.
Trying to remove every loose hair through excessive twisting or manipulation can actually slow the locking process and cause unnecessary stress on the hair. In many cases, frizz is simply a sign that your locs are continuing to develop.
You can minimize frizz by sleeping with a silk bonnet or silk pillowcase.
Can locs grow mold?
Locs can develop mold or mildew if they remain wet for extended periods without proper drying. Because locs are dense, they can hold moisture much longer than loose hair.
Common causes include going to sleep with wet locs, not drying locs completely after washing, frequently covering damp locs, or having poor airflow after water exposure.
To prevent mold, allow your locs to dry completely after washing or swimming. Wash your locs in the earlier part of the day, dry them with a microfiber towel (like this one), and avoid keeping wet locs covered for long periods.
Proper hydration is healthy for locs. The concern is not moisture itself, but trapped moisture that remains for 23 or more consecutive hours.
Are locs permanent?
Locs are considered a semi-permanent hairstyle because the hair has been intentionally allowed to tangle and intertwine over time. However, locs can be removed through a careful detangling process, especially if the hair is healthy and enough time is dedicated to the process.
Removing mature locs can be extremely time-consuming because the hair has developed a strong internal structure. Some people choose to cut their locs instead, while others successfully comb them out.
Here’s a step-by-step tutorial on how to comb your locs safely without losing hair.
Whether locs are permanent depends on the individual, their hair condition, and their willingness to go through the removal process.
Do locs need products?
Locs do not require a large number of products to stay healthy. In many cases, using too many products can create more problems by causing buildup and making the locs feel heavy.
The basic needs of locs are simple:
- Cleanse regularly
- Keep the scalp healthy
- Add hydration when needed
- Protect the hair from unnecessary damage
- Use lightweight products when necessary
This is a list of my favorite loc products to keep locs healthy, moisturized, and thriving, and these are my 7 must-haves!
If you want to make your own loc products, which I encourage you to do so, check out my 39 DIY recipes book here!
What is the best oil for locs?
The best oil for locs depends on your hair’s needs and how your hair responds to different ingredients. There are two main types of oils I use for my locs: essential oils and carrier oils.
Essential oils, like rosemary, peppermint, and eucalyptus essential oil, add scents and beneficial nutrients to your locs. I love using these in my daily moisturizer spray. In this article, I discuss the best essential oils for locs.
Carrier oils, like jojoba, castor, and grapeseed oil, are great for sealing moisture, particularly in the scalp. Lightweight oils are often preferred because they are less likely to create buildup. In this article, I discuss the benefits of each carrier oil and which hair type they’re best for.
Should you separate your locs?
Whether you should separate your locs depends on the look and maintenance style you want. Separating locs prevents neighboring locs from growing together and helps maintain individual sections.
Some people regularly separate their roots because they prefer clearly defined locs. Others intentionally allow their locs to merge into larger congo locs or follow a more freeform look.
Neither method is better. Separating is simply a personal choice based on your desired loc appearance and maintenance routine.
